LOCAL ANIMALS
Cromwell Station is home to both domesticated and wild mammals. The following is a list of the wild animals sighted.
These animals should never be approached or fed. In the woods they are an asset to our community in that they are important to our environment. Encouraging these animals to leave the woods and come near to the houses can cause health and welfare problems. The most important thing to do as a home owner to discourage these animals is to have good sanitation habits and do not provide shelter.
The most common sources of food we provide is trash in plastic bags or unsecured trash cans, bird and pet food on the ground and animal feces not picked up. Shelter can be provided from any rubbish left outside the home. Using common sense can prevent most problems from the local animals.
Click on the name of the mammal to view a larger version and a brief description. Thanks to Jim Kitko for providing these photos and descriptions.
| White Tailed Deer: Deer can be seen almost anywhere in Cromwell Station. Never approach a deer or feed any deer in the community. Cromwell Station is adjacent to a state park and Loch Raven Reservoir. It follows well-used trails, which cross our property to its feeding areas. The white-tailed deer is an herbivore or plant eater. It feeds in the early morning hours and in the late afternoon. A deer's diet changes depending on its habitat and the season. It eats green plants in the spring and summer. In the fall, it eats corn, acorns and other nuts. In the winter, it eats the buds and twigs of woody plants. Deer and people are live close to each other at Cromwell Station which can cause some problems. Deer will often eat food from gardens or cross roads to look for food and water. Many garden plants are food for the deer. People can also catch a sickness called Lyme Disease from the deer tick.
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| | Opossum: The opossum is the only marsupial in North America. It is not a rodent. Once a female opossum mates, she gives birth a mere 13 days later to a litter of roughly a dozen baby opossums that are each no bigger than a honeybee. These tiny, blind, and naked babies crawl on their own all the way to their mother's pouch. There they each latch on to a teat from which they receive milk. They remain there for nearly three months. The opossum is perhaps best known for faking death as a means of defense when attacked. While he is capable of falling over on his side, his mouth open in a death-like grin with saliva running out, from which state he cannot be roused until the danger is past, this is usually done only as a last resort. More likely a threatened opossum will look for the nearest exit and run away (or more accurately "waddle away," since they cannot move particularly fast). They will also sometimes bare their teeth, hiss, or even growl. With such displays they appear quite fierce, but actually they are not accomplished fighters and are very rarely aggressive. | 
| Raccoons: Raccoons are nocturnal or night-time active animals .Raccoons can cause substantial damage and can carry diseases and parasites. Children and pets are particularly at risk. In urban areas, raccoons damage building (particularly attics and roofs), gardens, fruit trees, lawns, garbage cans and trash containers. They are also attracted to pet food left outdoors and will attack pets. Raccoons are attracted to urban areas by the easy accessibility of food, water, and shelter. Reducing or eliminating the availability of all of these factors will encourage raccoons to leave. Tight fitting lids should be kept on garbage cans; pets should be fed during daylight hours and any leftovers removed immediately; water bowl should be emptied or taken in a night. Food should never be intentionally left out for wild mammals.
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| | Red Fox: The red fox is mostly nocturnal, although it will sometimes venture out in the day. The red fox eats a wide variety of foods. It is an omnivore and its diet includes fruits, berries and grasses. It also eats birds and small mammals like squirrels, rabbits and mice. A large part of the red fox's diet is made up invertebrates like crickets, caterpillars, grasshoppers, beetles and crayfish. Their vocal range is quite large and their noises vary from a distinctive three-yip "lost call" to a shriek reminiscent of a human scream. Sometime they can be heard at night roaming through the development. Like other wild animals, they are considered vectors of disease and should not be approached. It is not normal for an adult fox to approach a dog or humans. Abnormal conditions or behavior includes staggering, disorientation, paralysis of the hind limbs or attacking objects in a frenzied manner. Red foxes do not hibernate and are active year-round. Foxes are an important part of rodent control. | 
| Mice: Mice are prolific breeders, producing 6-10 litters continuously throughout the year. The greatest economic loss from mice is not due to how much they eat, but what must be thrown out because of damage or contamination. Food, clothing, furniture, books and many other household items are contaminated by their droppings and urine, or damaged by their gnawing. House mice gnaw through electrical wiring, causing fires and failure of freezers, clothes dryers and other appliances. Mice also can transmit diseases, most notably salmonellosis (bacterial food poisoning) when food is contaminated with infected rodent feces. Mice are nocturnal creatures, and, therefore, are rarely seen by the homeowner. The most obvious indicators of their presence are droppings (1/8 - 1/2-inches long, dark and pointed at both ends), sounds of them running, gnawing or squeaking, or damage to stored food or materials used for nesting.
Compared to rats, mice forage only short distances from their nest -- usually not more than 10-25 feet. When food and shelter are adequate, their foraging range may be only a few feet. For this reason, traps and other control devices must be placed in areas where mouse activity is most apparent. Mice prefer to travel adjacent to walls and other edges-- another critical point to remember when positioning control devices. Mice are very inquisitive and will investigate each new object placed in their foraging territory. If control devices are not initially successful, move them around to a different location. Mice feed on a wide variety of foods but prefer seeds and cereal grains. They also are fond of foods high in fat and protein such as nuts, bacon, butter and sweets (an important point to remember when choosing a bait for snap traps). Mice are "nibblers" and may make 20-30 visits to different food sites each night. To control mice, you must "think like a mouse," keeping in mind the behavioral traits noted above. The best way to control mice is to prevent their entry. Mice are able to squeeze through extremely small openings narrower than the diameter of a dime. Cracks in the foundation 1/4 inch and larger should be sealed, as should gaps and openings under doors and where utility pipes enter the structure. Good sanitation and food storage practices are helpful in reducing problems with house mice. Since seeds are a preferred food, all adjacent to the building should likewise be eliminated. However, because mice are able to occupy such small nesting areas and survive on minute amounts of food, sanitation alone will not normally eliminate an existing infestation.
Other than calling a pest control firm, homeowners have three control options available for ridding their premises of mice: toxic baits, known as rodenticides, traps, or glue boards.
Rodenticides marketed to homeowners are formulated almost exclusively as food-based baits containing seeds or grain as an attractant. Most rodenticides sold over the counter are anticoagulants containing brodifacoum, chlorophacinone, diphacinone or warfarin as active ingredients. They kill by interfering with normal clotting of the rodents' blood, causing the animal to die from internal bleeding. Since mice forage only short distances from their nests, optimum results are achieved with multiple bait placements as close to the mouse harborage as possible. Extreme care must be taken to position baits in areas inaccessible to children or pets. Dogs, in particular, will seek out and find baits placed in areas which are accessible.
Traps are generally preferred over rodenticides when only a few mice are present. Traps are less hazardous to use around children and pets. Because mice are caught by the trap, there is less chance of odor from mice dying in wall voids or other inaccessible areas. Conventional snap-type traps are easy to use and available at most supermarkets and hardware stores. Trapping efficiency will be enhanced by tying small pieces of bacon, gum drops, peanut butter or raisins to the trigger with thread. Research has shown that snap traps with an expanded trigger catch significantly more mice than conventional designs. Another type of trap available at most hardware and farm-supply stores is a multiple-catch mouse trap (Ketch-All). This device can capture and hold a dozen or more mice before needing to be emptied. Regardless of which design is used, traps should be placed up against walls, behind objects, and in secluded areas where mouse droppings, gnawing and damage are evident. Snap traps should be oriented perpendicular to the wall, with the trigger end against the vertical surface. Multiple-catch traps should be oriented with the entrance hole parallel to the wall.
Glue boards also are very effective against mice. Mice become entangled in the glue when they run over the boards, soon dying of suffocation. In addition to traps, they are the method of choice in homes and other sensitive locations where toxic baits are a concern. Should the glue from a glue board contact the fur of a pet or the skin of a child, it can be removed with mineral or vegetable oil. Traps and glue boards should be checked daily and dead mice disposed of in plastic bags. Gloves should be worn when handling mouse carcasses to prevent any chance of disease. This publication is for information and is intended as a guide only. Always read and follow all current label instructions for pesticides. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the pesticide label, the label instructions must be followed. | 
| Rats: The Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus, also called the brown rat or sewer rat) is a destructive pest found in urban and suburban neighborhoods. These rodents eat and contaminate food, damage buildings and other property by their gnawing and burrowing, and may spread diseases that affect people and pets.
Recognizing Rat Infestations The presence of rats can be detected by droppings or evidence of fresh gnawing. Tracks can be seen in mud and on dusty surfaces. Runways and burrows may be found next to buildings, along fences or under low vegetation and debris.
Rat Facts Norway rats are husky, brownish rodents that weigh about 11 ounces. They are about 13 to 18 inches long including the 6 to 8 1/2 inch tail. Their fur is coarse and mostly brown with scattered black on the upper surfaces. The underside is typically grey to yellowish-white. Rats will eat nearly any type of food, but they prefer high-quality foods such as meat and fresh grain. Rats require 1/2 to 1 fluid ounce of water daily when feeding on dry food. Rats have keen taste, hearing and sense of smell. They will climb to find food or shelter, and they can gain entrance to a building through any opening larger than 1/2 inch across.
Rats have litters of 6 to 12 young, which are born 21 to 23 days after mating. Young rats reach reproductive maturity in about three months. Breeding is most active in spring and fall. The average female has four to six litters per year. Rats can live for up to 18 months, but most die before they are one year old.
Rat Prevention and Control
Sanitation: Poor sanitation and the presence of garbage help rats to survive in residential areas. Good sanitation will effectively limit the number of rats that can survive in and around the home. This involves good housekeeping, proper storage and handling of food materials and refuse, and elimination of rodent shelter (harborage). Removing clutter around homes allows inspection for signs of rats. Good sanitary practices will not eliminate rats under all conditions, but will make the environment less suitable for them to thrive. Many rat problems around homes can be related to the keeping of pets. In fact, rats may live in very close association with cats and dogs. Rats feed on the dog's food when the pet is absent or asleep. Leaving pet food outside will attract rats. Rats will feed on animal feces. Any feces that is not picked up is a food source. Rats will feed on bird food left on the ground. Rats will feed on garbage. Make sure you trash is stored in trash cans. Rats can easily get into trash bags. Although house cats, some dogs and other predators kill rats, they do not usually provide effective rat control.
Rat-Proof Construction: The most successful and permanent form of rat control is to "build them out" by making their access to structures impossible. Ideally, all places where food is stored, processed or used should be rodent-proof. Store bulk foods, bird seed and dry pet food in metal cans with tightfitting lids.
Seal any openings larger than 1/4 inch to exclude both rats and mice. Openings where utility conduits enter buildings should be sealed tightly with metal or concrete. Equip floor drains and sewer pipes with tightfitting grates having openings less than 1/4 inch in diameter. Doors, windows and screens should fit tightly. It may be necessary to cover edges with sheet metal to prevent gnawing. Many houses in Cromwell Station have condensate and hot water overflow drains from the internal of the house adjacent to the hot water heater. Put some plumbers putty in the conduit to prevent entry. Do not block the flow of water from the condensate or the hot water heater.
Traps: Trapping is an effective method of control. It is the preferred method in homes where only a few rats are present. Trapping has several advantages: 1) it does not rely on inherently hazardous poisons; 2) it permits the user to determine if the rat was killed and 3) it allows for disposal of rat carcasses, thus eliminating odor problems that may occur when poisoning is done within buildings. However, trapping is useless if the procedures to prevent reinfestation are not followed. The simple, inexpensive snap trap is effective and can be purchased in most hardware and grocery stores. Bait traps with peanut butter, chocolate candy, dried fruit or a small piece of hot dog or bacon tied securely to the trigger. Set them so that the trigger is sensitive and will spring easily. Set traps close to walls, behind objects, in dark corners and in places where evidence of activity is seen. Place them so that rats will pass directly over the triggers as they follow the natural course of travel, usually close to a wall. Traps can be set on ledges or on top of pallets of stored materials if rats are active in such locations.
Use enough traps to eliminate the rodents quickly. (Using too few traps is a common error by individuals attempting to control rats.) Leaving traps unset until the bait has been taken at least once (prebaiting) often increases the success of trapping. An alternative to traps are glue boards, which catch and hold rats attempting to cross them in much the same way flypaper catches flies.
Place glue boards along walls where rats travel. Two or three glue boards placed side-by-side will be more effective than individual boards. Do not use them where children, pets or desirable wildlife can contact them. Glue boards can be placed inside tamper-resistant bait boxes in exposed locations. Glue boards lose their effectiveness in dusty areas unless covered and extremes of temperature also may affect the tackiness of the glue. Glue boards are sometimes used to catch a rat that is wary of snap traps.
Poison Baits: Rodenticides are poisons that kill rodents. They can be purchased in hardware stores, feed stores, discount stores, garden centers and other places where pesticides are sold. Do not buy unlabeled rodent baits from street vendors or other uncertain sources. Do not purchase baits that have an incomplete label or one that appears to be "homemade."
"Building out" rodents and trapping are the most effective control methods. Rodent baits should be used only to supplement these methods. If there is a repeated need to use baits, it is likely that sanitation and rodent-proofing should be improved. Remember that rodent baits are poisons. Make sure they are registered with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and always follow the label instructions exactly. If baits are used indoors, be sure they are labeled specifically for interior use. The active ingredients in baits are used at very low levels, so bait shyness does not occur when using properly formulated baits. Most of these baits cause death only after they are eaten for several days, although some types can cause death following a single feeding. Make sure that fresh bait is available continuously until rats stop feeding.
Bait Selection and Placement: Baits are available in several forms. Grain baits in a meal or pelleted form are available in small plastic, cellophane or paper packets. These sealed "place packs" keep bait fresh and make it easy to place the baits in burrows, walls or other locations. Rats gnaw into the packet to feed on the bait. Block style baits are also very effective for most situations. Using tamper- resistant bait stations provides a safeguard for people, pets and other animals. Place bait stations next to walls with the openings close to the wall or in other places where rats are active. When possible, secure the bait station to a fixed object to prevent it from being moved. Clearly label all bait stations "Caution-Rat Bait" as a safety precaution.
Sound and Electronic Devices: Rats quickly become accustomed to regularly repeated sounds. Ultrasonic sounds, those above the range of human hearing, have very limited use because they are directional and do not penetrate behind objects. Also, they quickly lose their intensity with distance. There is little evidence that sound of any type will drive established rats from buildings or otherwise give adequate control.
Control by Cats and Dogs: Many rat problems around homes can be related to the keeping of pets. In fact, rats may live in very close association with cats and dogs. Rats frequently feed on the dog's food when he is absent or asleep. Although house cats, some dogs and other predators kill rats, they do not usually provide effective rat control.
Disposal of Dead Rodents: Always wear intact rubber or plastic gloves when removing dead rodents and when cleaning or disinfecting items contaminated by rodents. Soak or spray dead rodents with a disinfecting solution (3 tablespoons of bleach per gallon of water or a commercial disinfectant containing phenol) until thoroughly wet and place in a plastic bag. The bag should be placed in a second bag and tightly sealed. Dispose of rodents in trash containers with tightfitting lids. After handling rodents, resetting traps and cleaning contaminated objects, thoroughly wash gloved hands in a general household disinfectant or in soap and water. Then remove gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water.
This publication is for information and is intended as a guide only. Always read and follow all current label instructions for pesticides. If any information in these recommendations disagrees with the pesticide label, the label instructions must be followed. | 
| Chipmunks: Although more common in forests than outside them, these flashy little ground squirrels still occasionally make their homes in yards, where they're usually seen in stone walls, under walkways or patios, or in gardens. Chipmunks are utterly enjoyable animals, and there's more to say about the pleasure that comes from having them around than about the problems they may pose. Chipmunks are members of the same family of animals as the larger tree squirrels. Chipmunks also readily adapt to suburban yards and gardens and often dig burrows around rocks, woodpiles, retaining walls, and fallen logs. While they're expert climbers, they spend much of their time foraging along the ground-preferably close to their burrows, should a quick escape be necessary. Their vocalizations range from high-pitched whistles and chips to lower "chuck" sounds. Chipmunks depend primarily on plants for food-concentrating on seeds, berries, acorns, and other nuts. They'll also occasionally eat insects, small amphibians, and rarely, birds. Like squirrels, they forage most intensely in the fall as they gather food to store and eat over the winter. Transporting food is facilitated by expandable cheek pouches, into which quite a lot of material can be crammed-as anyone who watches these animals for long can attest. Eastern chipmunks mate in early spring and again in early summer to produce two litters, each of four to five young, but western chipmunks only breed once a year. The young emerge from the burrow after about six weeks and strike out on their own within the next two weeks.
Chipmunks don't usually cause property damage, although they sometimes are blamed for injuries to ornamental plants as they harvest fruits and nuts. Like tree squirrels, chipmunks occasionally dig up and eat spring flowering bulbs. Some homeowners get annoyed when chipmunks burrow in flower beds or under sidewalks and porches, but the burrows are almost never extensive enough to cause structural damage.
To exclude these animals from burrowing around sidewalks, porches, and retaining walls by using an "L-shaped footer." This is hardware cloth or welded wire buried a foot deep in an "L" shape, at least eight inches out, to keep animals from burrowing under it. Or, if vegetation is in the way, a tight fit to the ground and an "L" extension that runs out on the surface, instead of underground, should do the trick. Flower bulbs are protected from burrowing chipmunks if planted beneath a wire or plastic screen ground cover. The mesh should be large enough to allow plants to sprout but prevent digging.
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| | Squirrel: During the spring, summer and autumn, squirrels have their peak activity times about 2 hours after sunrise and 2-5 hours before sunset. This allows them to avoid the heat of the day. Eastern grey squirrels communicate among themselves with a variety of vocalizations and postures, such as tail flicking. They also have a keen sense of smell. They feed mostly on nuts, flowers and buds of more than 24 species of oaks, 10 species of hickory, pecan, walnut and beech tree species. Maple, mulberry, hackberry, elm, bucky and horse chestnut fruits, seeds, bulbs or flowers are also eaten along with wild cherry, dogwood, hawthorn, black gum, hazelnut, hop hornbeam and gingko tree fruits, seeds, bulbs and/or flowers. Eastern grey squirrels are hosts for parasites such as ticks, fleas, lice, and roundworms. | 
| | Groundhog: The sun-loving groundhog is active by day, especially in early morning and late afternoon. They can be spotted at the entrance to the development. A good swimmer and climber, it will go up a tree to escape an enemy or obtain a vantage point but never travels far from its den. They eat green vegetation such as grasses, clover, alfalfa, plantain, and corn; can be found in people's gardens munching on greens. | 
| | Bats: These are seen at dusk flying over the community looking for food. The majority of bats that people encounter are healthy, but bats can get sick just like humans and other animals. Some of the diseases that infect bats may also be transmitted to people. Rabies and histoplasmosis are the most important public health issues to consider when dealing with bats. These bats frequent forested areas and watercourses, and utilize hollow trees as roosting sites and nurseries. They use the attics of houses and other man-made structures as roosts when natural sites are not available. Evening bats seem to have two preferred times of foraging, one in the early evening hours and then again just before dawn. Specific prey items include small night-flying insects such as bugs, flying ants, spittle bugs, June beetles, pomace flies, Japanese beetles, and moths. Bats seldom are aggressive, even when sick, and humans typically feel and recognize any bites they receive. If bite seek immediate medical attention. Never handle bats. |
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